SA: Timbavati Game Reserve: Umlani

Umlani Bushcamp, a rustic yet exclusive lodge, accommodates guests in cozy en-suite reed and thatch rondavels. Early morning and evening game drives are in open four wheel drive vehicles accompanied by experienced rangers and trackers offers exceptional game viewing opportunitys. Umlani makes the whole event personalized and specializes in escorted walks into this unspoiled wilderness. Umlani, meaning Place of Rest, was established in 1990 by Marco and Marie-Louise Schiess, in the central section of the Timbavati Nature Reserve, which is part of the greater Kruger National Park. Umlani is the perfect nature lovers choice.

🙂 AMAZING rustic and authentic bush getaway! Sleeping in the treehouse with ellies all around us!

🙁 Too short!

Thursday, 7 September 2023

We had packed and left Mjejane at 05h00 and stopped off via the Blyde River Canyon where the vista was as spectacular as ever! We continued our drive through more magnificent scenery, passed through Hoedspruit and soon entered the Timbavati Reserve Gate where we were told that the rest of our group had arrived about 20mins earlier. Less than an hour later we took the turn off for Umlani. We were greeted by the most friendly zebra foal we have ever encountered -it simply had no fear and actually approached the vehicle – this may not bode well for its safe future….!

We had booked out the entire camp which comprised of 8 Huts and a Treehouse which is where Paul and I were to stay, but ended up having guests every night! Hut 1: Rhino – Sam & Andy; Hut 2: Giraffe – Riley & Bruce; Hut 3: Buffalo – Caitlyn & Amira; Hut 4; Impala – Ju (and we used the shower and stored our bags here); Hut 5: Elephant – Ben & Bella; Hut 6: Wild Dog – Andy & Libby; Hut 7: Lion – Harry & Sally and Hut 8: Leopard – Ben & Charlotte. The swimming pool overlooks the river bed and is a cold and inviting temptation away from the hot African sun!

All the rooms were lovely with en suites. If I were to come as a couple I would select Leopard which is at the far end with a view of the dry river bed. This is Impala:

Leopard’s view:

We all relaxed in various ways until it was time for lunch at 13h30 – I had a lovely nap! Food was delicious on the deck overlooking the dry river bed where we spotted elephants coming for a drink at the water hole.

at 15h30 it was time for our first game drive and we split our group between the two safari vehicles in eager anticipation! Our GUides were Big A and Daniel.

What would we see first?! Some nice wildebeest…

Highly vocal Crested Barbet with his colourful plumage!

We were highly excited as we heard the word ‘Ingwe’ crackling on the radio – leopard!! We raced to the river bed….

…and there she was! A female who crossed in front of us and then back up the river bank … Her name is Nyaleti and she is 9/10 years old with a 2yr old cub.

A hyena was at the base of the tree and they had a brief scrap!

…. then she shot up the tree where her cub was balancing next to their prey of impala – SO EXCITING!!!

It is a delicate balancing act!

She positioned herself next to the impala kill.

What an exciting start! Our first leopard of the holiday..and with a cub on a kill! We left them in peace and headed off to enjoy sundowners after stopping to photograph some general game and a herd of elephants in the setting sun.

We enjoyed Ghost Pops and Biltong washed down with G&Ts, Savannah Dry, Castle Lager and Dry White Wine … simply DIVINE.

It was dark as we drove back …we stopped the car and sat in silence under the full moon listening to all the amazing night sounds … scops owl, the call of a hyena … at one with nature ….

We got back to camp and had quick showers before meeting around the boma for drinks to discuss the day. Nothing better than sitting around a fire in the bush with those who are dearest and nearest to you…

Dinner was delicious and then Paul and I were escorted to our Treehouse for the night along with a glass of Amarula!

The full moon added to the ambiance!

Our night visitors included a herd of elephants noisily slurping from the fresh water source at the base of the treehouse!

Friday, 8 September 2023

We woke to a noisy dawn chorus including the tell tale booming of the ground hornbill and a spectacular sunrise!

A sad sighting was a hyena whose jaw was completely broken and hanging from her face with the white of the teeth and jaw bone visible … no hope for this poor creature who could not even manage to drink – helplessly putting her head into the water 🙁

We spotted the vehicles coming to collect us at 06h00 – they stopped off to photograph the hyena and then we were on our way!

Great anticipation for what the morning would hold!

We enjoyed an AMAZING sighting of a tiny baby elephant who was really cute and kept us mesmerised!

Its is a tough life being this utterly adorable!

We were then graced with the presence of the King of the Jungle but he soon got bored with our presence! He is part of the Vyuela coalition of 4 males.

The females looked in great condition!

Here’s looking at you…

We had quite a special buffalo sighting

And a dusty ostrich

Our coffee stop was back at the treehouse where we could make use of the loo.

We got back to camp and enjoyed a delicious breakfast.

Then it was time to relax. I had a snooze for an hour whilst everyone chilled in their own ways. We then regrouped around the swimming pool.

I had sent a WhatsApp to our group describing the way in which nyala ‘fight’. Nyala bulls have a rather strange way of fighting. It looks more like a slow-motion waltz than it does a fight. They circle each other, with their faces trained on the ground but still keeping a beady eye on their opponent.  They circle each other broadside in a lateral display, attempting to make themselves appear as big as possible. They fluff up their tails and the dorsal manes on their back, whilst arching their heads forward with horns held high. It is in this rather contorted posture that they then deliberately circle one another, slowly high stepping their bright yellow/orangey legs as they go. This is often done in the presence of females and in the hope that these potential mating partners will be watching to see who comes out on top. Typically the male who loses will drop his mane and wander off to groom or feed in a rather sheepish manner, appearing to have forgotten about the fight altogether. The winner will keep his hair puffed up for a while longer, making sure everyone is aware of who won the fight-dance. It ’s this particular male that will then be awarded the mating rights. Seeing this kind of behaviour is always special as it doesn’t happen very often, and just to see the beautiful colours being displayed is incredible. We were privilged to have this scene unfold in front of us for nearly an hour! We we were fascinated!

While we enjoyed lunch a big herd of zebra were squabbling at the water hole.

After lunch we headed to the Treehouse where a herd of elephants were enjoying a drink. Another elephant arrived with two youngsters – she was definitely NOT welcome – the herd formed a wall and the matriarch chased her …she used our vehicle as an obstacle to hide behind! Exciting stuff!

Just around the corner we found some flat lions….

they had no interest in us so we meandered on for sundowners…

Fun! Fun! Fun!

We returned to camp to a wonderful surprise – Dinner in the riverbed – it was done so beautifully with twinkly lights everywhere and lovely fires…

After dinner we were escorted to the treehouse – Ben, Charlotte, Harry & Sally shared a bed! On the way there we spotted a tortoise whch had been chewed by a lion! Ellies enjoyed a quick drink before moving on.

Another spectacular sunrise – and a very noisy Franklin!

Saturday, 9 September 2023

We were collected at 06h00 the next morning to start our game drive.

Time for more portraits at our coffee stop.

We headed back to chill…a nap and then pool time – the kids enjoyed ‘Whirlpool’!!

After lunch we found our pride of lions …

We enjoyed another stunning sundowner.

Our final dinner was a delicious braai.

We had a surprise visitor or two – the Honeybadger don’t give a damn!

After dinner we enjoyed the Award Ceremony hosted by Caitlyn and Bruce.

As we were about to drive to the Treehouse we heard the most dreadful sounds of a hyena being killed! It was bone chilling!

That evening Caits and Amira joined us in the Treehouse.

Charlotte had been really worried that there would be a snake in the treehouse – we told her not to be silly ….

Sunday, 10 September 2023

Our last morning …. and what a great way to end the trip! We were surprised to find lions on a kill very close to the treehouse! Very cool to see and hear the snarling as they fought over the prime meat!

We swapped out with the others and then enjoyed a coffee…just befoew heading back to camp the lions all came down for a drink….something was in the air which caught their eye!

What a grand finale! We headed back to enjoy breakfast, packed and said our farewells with heavy hearts… A few of us were flying from Hoedspruit and Ben & Charlotte were continuing their trip for an extended week in Kruger – lucky fish!

What a memorable time with those we love in paradise ….we felt so blessed.

Some peeps flew via Cape Town where they left Sam & Andy to enjoy another week of fynbos, penguins, whales and wine tasting!

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