India: The Maharajas’ Express 2023

The Maharajas' Express is a luxury tourist train owned and operated by Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation. It serves four routes across North-West and Central India, mainly centred on Rajasthan between the months of October and April. A fascinating voyage across some of the finest destinations in India let you discover the true spirit of this incredible nation. An amalgamation of style, luxury, lavishness and grandeur – Maharajas’ Express enjoys the status of being India’s most opulent luxury train. The cabins are adorned with rich tapestry, linen, upholstery, wall-to-wall carpeting, semi-precious stones and antiques. During your journey, enjoy the beautiful scenery whizzing by from the huge panoramic windows.

🙂 LOVE train journeys and this was top notch! Outstanding service and food in luxurious surroundings.

🙁 First date cancelled after we paid and incurred costs for changing flights at last minute 🙁

We absolutely love Rail Journeys … I think for me the nostalgia dates back to my Oupa who worked for the railways, so holidays usually entailed a rail trip… Maharajas’ Express was worth every penny and one of the BEST! Due to Covid the planning had been bubbling for a couple of years… the only hiccup was the day after we settled our (large) final balance we received an e-mail to say that our train was cancelled as there were not enough passengers but that they could upgrade us to the Suite (which we had already booked and paid for) … it IS in the T&Cs… so with great inconvenience in changing dates at work and flights at huge costs given it was Easter, we bit the bullet and went ahead and made the changes to accommodate joining the next train. The itinerary was slightly different as we were due to the 4Day / 3 Night trip but we were asked to join the Indian Panorama which is a 7 Day / 6 Night journey and we disembarked on Day 4 at Agra.

We were collected from our hotel at 07h15 and boarded in Delhi. We were greeted by musicians and given a bindi and wreath while we enjoyed a refreshment and completed the paperwork.

DAY 1: The itinerary was thankfully switched to have dinner at the Rambagh Palace on Day 2.

Our Butler, RK welcomed us and showed us to our suite.

The suite was spacious and comfortable. We laughed because I had to exchange money at the airport and it came in thick wads of cash – thank goodness we had a safe!

All coaches are named after precious stones and our coach was Gomed, which is maroon in colour. We were adjacent to the Safari Bar so we headed straight there for a welcome glass of sparkling wine. We enjoyed several games of Scrabble during our journey (and yes, I won! :-))

There are two theme restaurants, which provide an interesting environment and easy access to the panoramic view as you dine. Closest to us was Rang Mahal, which means ‘Palace of Colours’. The restaurant matches the name with the fresco painting on the ceiling and other colourful decorations. Chef John is outstanding as well as charming and has a chat with each guest during every meal.

We enjoyed a traditional Indian Breakfast followed by a game of Scrabble and then a much needed sleep…. we were energised to eat more – a fabulous lunch and then it was time for our first excursion to visit the Amber Fort. We had opted to pay the additional cost for a Private Guide and Driver at every excursion – the $45 was worth every penny has we detest coaches and group tours…this way we could do things at our own pace and we either negated or limited time spent visiting carpet, gem, fabric outlets where we had no interest to visit.

It was an enthusiastic welcome at Jaipur Station!

Jaipur is the capital of India’s Rajasthan state. It evokes the royal family that once ruled the region and that, in 1727, founded what is now called the Old City, or “Pink City” for its trademark building colour. At the center of its stately street grid (notable in India) stands the opulent, colonnaded City Palace complex. With gardens, courtyards and museums, part of it is still a royal residence. 

Our Guide for our stay in Jaipur was Davindra and our Driver was Shenka …very good apart from when he asked us how much we had paid to take the train journey – we advised him to Google it! LOL.

We passed a few interesting sites on our way to the Amber Fort which is 11Km outside of Jaipur.

and on the way back…

The Amber Fort was as interesting as we remembered it to be back in 1995 which was the last time we were in Jaipur. The Amber Fort were originally built by Raja Man Singh. Jai Singh I expanded it. Improvements and additions were done successive rulers over the next 150 years, until the Kachwahas shifted their capital to Jaipur during the time of Sawai Jai Singh II, in 1727.

And Yes…I got talked into a ‘quick’ stop at the gem factory … Charlotte, Cailtyn and Katie benefitted! 🙂 Unfortunately the Wheeler Dealer Jeweller had spotted my watch and bracelet so it was not east striking a baragain

It was time to eat again! Another absolutely divine meal…!

We were invited to the Bar but we were just too exhausted and headed straight to bed!

DAY 2:

Unfortunately it was a disturbed night’s sleep as we were at a station which had announcements throughout the night. We were at breakfast for 07h30 – another delicious feast! We headed back into Jaipur – there was a festival in full throng which was actually quite fortunate as we got lovely photos of the Palace of the Winds with very few people and cars in the way…. quite different to our previous photos here when our film in our camera had been exposed to sun!

The City Palace, Jaipur is a royal residence and former administrative headquarters of the rulers of the Jaipur State in Jaipur, Rajasthan. Constructed started soon after the establishment of the city of Jaipur under the reign of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, who moved his court to Jaipur from Amber, in 1727.

The flag was flying, so Royalty were in residence. The opulent pink pavilion perched in the middle of the courtyard is known as the king’s hall of private audience. It still holds importance today as it was the hall where major religious rituals and festivals took place. The drawcard to Diwan – E – Khas is the display of two large and legendary silver Gangajelies, or water urns, that back in the day carried two months’ worth of holy Ganga water for Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh, on his visit all the way to London. These weigh 345 kgs when empty and are officially the biggest sterling silver urns in the world, according to the Guinness Book of Records.

Ridhi Sidhi Pol gate leads to an inner courtyard called Pritam Niwas Chowk, or ‘courtyard of the beloved. As you enter this unique enclosed courtyard you’ll be greeted with four elaborate brass doors that are bound to catch your eye. Bursting with punchy colours and decked in bejewelled motifs, these gates are quite simply, picture-perfect. The four gates symbolise each of the four seasons and honour the Hindu Gods – Lotus Gate: represents summer and is dedicated to Lord Shiva, Peacock Gate: Autumn and Lord Vishnu, Rose Gate: Winter and Goddess Devi, and Leheriya Gate: Spring and Lord Ganesha.

A really vibrant and interesting Palace which gave an excellent chronological account of all the Maharajas.

I did agree to make a quick stop at the obligatory block print fabric factory! I enjoyed colouring my elephant! 🙂

It was time to eat AGAIN – another fantastic lunch…followed by Scrabble. This time we dined in the Mayur Mahal. The name can be translated as peacock palace. As the name indicates, the restaurant has a golden peacock masterpiece that welcomes you into the restaurant.

That afternoon we were meant to go to an Elephant Sanctuary however, the one we wanted to visit was going to charge £100 per person so we opted to stay on board instead. We should have used the finds from that to take the private transport to Rambagh Palace which is now a 5 star hotel but was the former residence of the Maharajah of Jaipur, but we took the coach instead – which was actually quite nice as we got to meet a pleasant Australian couple. Paul and I had splashed out here in 1995 when we were backpacking around the world with Trent – not much has changed! Quite idyllic.

Paul donned a turban while I had my hands painted with henna…the chef took a shine to us and gave us extra portions and items which were from the Ala Carte Menu! Bless… Paul enjoyed joining the band! 🙂

When we got back on board we spent the remainder of the evening drinking wine with two lovely American couples – BIG mistake as we had to be up for Ranthambore at 05h30 the next morning! Decorative towels every evening!

We had been allocated Zone 6. Our guide and driver were great and we really enjoyed the morning, although we did not see a tiger….but we did not despair as we were returning for three nights! We enjoyed the drive, sunrise and antelope and peacocks that we did see.

DAY 3 Cont

We headed back to the train for another delicious breakfast. Chef John rushed over to ensure that we got a photo of the Buland Darwaza ( lit. ‘High Gate’), or the “Door of Victory”, was built in 1575 by Mughal emperor Akbar to commemorate his victory over Gujarat. It is the main entrance to the Jama Masjid at Fatehpur Sikri, which is 43 km from Agra, India. We couldn’t quite get it through the windows so Chef took him to the Kitchen, where Paul hung out of the train with staff holding him so that he wouldn’t fall out – he got the photo! 🙂

A unique blend of religious excellence and religious beliefs – is the essence of Pride of Mughal Empire, Fatehpur Sikri. It was built by Akbar to honour Sheikh Salim Chishti, whose prediction of the birth of the Pride of Mughal Empire heir came true when Akbar was visiting the erstwhile city of Sikri. Shortage of water compelled him to abandon the city. It was fascinating to wander around this complex and learn the history.

Back on board it was time for yet another fantastic feast! A wonderful finale for our last evening on board. Met a lovely Norwegian Family who had been travelling the world for 9 months (3 to go) – just an AMAZING adventure!

Up early for out Taj Mahal visit – SO exciting to see it again – and just as MAGNIFICENT. Quite fun to compare and contract to our previous trip to Agra in 1995! Compare and contrast the age difference! 🙂

We were transported by electric vehicle to prevent pollution – impressive. An immense mausoleum of white marble, built in Agra between 1631 and 1648 by order of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favourite wife, the Taj Mahal is the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world’s heritage.

We were welcomed for a lovely breakfast overlooking the Taj Mahal with gentle music in the background and sparkling wine. A wonderful end to a wonderful journey!

On the way back we stopped off for the obligatory marble factory tour – Paul refused any hospitality but I did buy a little elephant. Trent’s Picasso was also on display!

We headed back to the train to have our final delicious lunch and farewell to Chef John, all the serving staff and our Butler … what an amazing time we had enjoyed – highly recommended! We were just sad that we were missing the Bollywood evening of entertainment that night.

After we disembarked from the Maharaja’s Express we did a whistle stop tour of the Red Fort. Built by the Mughal emperor Akbar in 1565 and completed in 1573, it served as the main residence of the rulers of the Mughal Dynasty until 1638, when the capital was shifted from Agra to Delhi.

We then headed off to Ranthambore …for TIGERS!

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