Palmwag – Epupa Falls

The border river between Namibia and Angola, the Kunene, plummets down a 40 metre deep gorge at the Epupa Falls close to the nearby village of Epupa. In the Herero language Epupa means “falling water”. Raw Africa at its best. My favourite place in Namibia. One of the highlights of Kaokoland in the far northern reaches of Namibia, Epupa is a magical belt of makalani palm forest on the perennial Kunene River.

🙂 Black rhino. Epupa Falls. The breeze off the river and falls. Wildest Africa at its best

🙁 Everything perfect!

Sunday, 3 January 2021: Palmwag Desert Rhinos – Epupa Falls (454Km) 31C

Up at 06h30 and met Elvyn and a german chap at reception. Picked up two chaps from the rhino trust and headed to the Torro Conservation area. We were warned it would take us up to 4 hours to find a rhino, if at all….we found ours at 07h10! A female called Martjie and her calf aged about 6mo.

We then alighted from the vehicle and tracked them on foot – there were numerous snakes: horned adders!!

The poor rhino conservation guys had holey boots that were falling off their feet. We spent 30mins with the rhinos and then they decided to start tracking us on foot so we made a swift exit back to our vehicle felling very privileged to have had this time with them. We drove up the hill to a vista for breakfast of croissants, quiche, fruit and coffee and juice.

We headed back at 10h00 and rushed to our vehicle – we donated all our boots to Elvyn and the two rhino guys. Elvyn’s binocs were rubbish so we also gave him one of ours which are really good plus $400. They were in tears and so very grateful – bless them. We exchanged e-mail addresses and promised to send him our photos – which we did.  Elvyn still writes to us every year to ask u show we are and to tell us to visit again.

Headed in the difrection of Epupa Falls – amazing scenery. Millions of termite mounds. Stopped in Opowu – what a melting pot! The Spar had shoppers from all walks of life: naked ochre polished Himba, traditionally dressed Horero, White tourist, ordinary locals – quite amazing to see.

Arrived at our divine campsite at Omarunga Epupa Falls right next to the river at 17h30. (no 4. No 5 is best but was already taken).

As we were setting up camp we could smell diesel – there was a hole in the fuel tank!! The local camp mechanic popped over to take a look while we lay by the pool. The pool was not in a great state but at least it was a cool respite from the unforgiving heat.

Epupa falls is on the border of Angola and featured in an episode of Top Gear. It is still ‘wild’ Africa in all it glory. Just an amazing place.

I had pre-booked various activities and dinner and the camp manager said that there was no space for us (the person I had spoken to had of course gone on leave and not left any instructions!). I had a calm but firm conversation and we managed to enjoy a wonderful three course meal! In bed at 22h00. We could see the crocs eyes in the water in the river next to us!

Go Back to: Palmwag

Go to: Epupa Falls: Himba Tribe

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