🙂 Stunning scenery
🙁 Motorcycles and Charlotte’s horrible accident in front of our eyes 🙁
Monday, 29 April 2019 – Danang via Hai Van Pass – Hoi An 38C
We were up early and enjoyed an excellent breakfast. We were collected by Vin who was a lovely chap.My helmet was too big and wouldn’t close so we had to visit the shop to get a new one…then we were on our way! Charlotte insisted on driving her own bike although we had suggested she should travel with Vin on the back of his bike.
The roads were a little hectic but we soon got use to it and trundled along admiring the scenery. Numerous cemeteries abound in a tiny fishing town called An Bang Village and which is nicknamed the City of Ghosts as it boasts so many elaborate tombs. Families spend circa USD$30k on tombs which are huge (400 square metres!) and extravagant. Although Vietnam is largely atheist the practice of Ancestor worship is taken seriously and we were told that they are there for the children to pay their respects which in turn brings the family good fortune. Many were over 6 metres tall with colourful dragons carved into ornate pillars …newer tombs are being built to stand at 10m high! It was quite something to behold!
we continued our journey and stopped for petrol and then an ornate Japanese bridge located in the quiet Thuy Thanh village. It is surrounded by an abundance of green fields and waterways and serves as an out-of-the-way tourist spot for visitors seeking an insight into rural traditions. Few visitors escape the village without first getting their fortune told by Tran Thi Dieu, an enigmatic mainstay of the bridge. Many people have called Dieu ‘the soul of Thanh Toan’, where she has spent the last 16 years working as a fortune teller. The 72 year-old is still going strong, offering predictions to all who pass her way. She has even learnt to talk to foreigners in English, using the bits of language she can remember from her first marriage with an American soldier in Hue in 1967. There were no other tourists and it was a peaceful setting. Across the bridge, visitors can call in at a nearby museum which boasts an impressive array of farming and fishing tools – there was a festival of sorts underway
It was very interesting to watch the Vietnamese version of Bingo: Bai choi accompanied by traditional music.
It was a very interesting stop. We continued winding through little fishing villages
It was all going well until and we were relaxed and sped up – we went around a corner following Charlotte but could see her bike going straight and she went flying into the road – a heart stopping moment! Fortunately she had narrowly missed hitting the fire hydrant and it could have been much more serious but was still in agony. The locals kindly rushed over to help and to give her a cool drink and ice her hip.- so lovely The bike was damaged and we agreed to call the van as back up … poor Charlotte – she had been so looking forward to this part of the trip as a particular highlight.
Vin found us a lovely stop off to enjoy lunch with a view of the ocean and after sipping her pina colada Charlotte started to feel a little less shaken but still bruised.
We chose some delicious seafood but opted out of turtle!
We continued on the journey in the van – the views were as spectacular as expected and we were sad not witness them from the bike but at least we were safe! As the 20Km pass road curved back and forth, we navigated some slight bends, some hairpin turns and we were rewarded with spectacular views of misty mountains rising high over the South China Sea, deserted sandy beaches, forests and far-off cities….truly spectacular! It was dubbed as one of the “best coastal roads in the world” by the UK program, Top Gear, in their Vietnam Special (2008) and we could appreciate why! Hai Van roughly translates as ‘Sea of Clouds’ in Vietnamese, which perfectly describes this misty mountain coastal road that connects the ocean with the sky. The history of the road dates back to the 1300s when it marked a physical boundary between the Champa and Dai Viet Kingdoms. To this day, you can see an ancient grand gate at the summit of the pass which used to be a border crossing between the kingdoms.
We continued our drive to Marble Mountain. Charlotte opted to have a cooldrink while we walked up the steep stairs to the top of the view point. Marble Mountains is a cluster of five marble and limestone hills located in Ngũ Hành Sơn District, south of Da Nang city in Vietnam. The five mountains are named after the five elements: Kim, Thuy, Moc, Hoa and Tho.
Huyen Khong is the largest of the caves. The collapsed ceiling allows shafts of light to pierce the dark cavern, creating dramatic spotlights inside. It was once used as a secret base and later a field hospital for Vietnamese revolutionaries. Its jaw-dropping size seems unlikely from the entrance, but is large enough to house a massive stone Buddha and two shrines. One of the shrines is dedicated to the god and goddess of match-making, and is a popular spot for couples and singles to worship. We hadn’t expected the caves to be quite so awe inspiring – definitely worth a visit!
The vistas from the top were stunning.
Vin then dropped us in Hoi An at our hotel called Threeways Riverside. This Villa offered nice views of the river, free bikes, outdoor swimming pool, a bar and breakfast. We had a quick swim before showering.
After our shower we walked into Hoi An and wen to to Kimmy’s which had come highly recommended for tailor made clothes. It is owned and run by a Vietnamese Canadian and provided excellent service. Definitely one to choose from the many options available. Paul was fitted for a suit and shirt … we were also on the hunt for a dress for Charlotte for Ascot… we were to return the following evening for a further fitting…
After our clothes shopping we headed for dinner at Morning Glory. The restaurant takes its name from the morning glory vegetable, which, after rice, is the most commonly eaten food in Vietnam. It came highly recommended and did not disappoint. We bumped into our friends from the boat in Halong Bay! Hoi – An has such a great vibe … after our delicious dinner we strolled around taking it all in.
I must say that Hoi An is even more beautiful at night when hundreds of lanterns are lit. The ancient town is lively thanks to popular games that take place in the streets attracting both residents and tourists. The most popular traditional game is bai choi, the bingo accompanied by Vietnamese traditional folk music that we had seen on the way to Danang….what an enchanting place – we loved it.
I had toyed with the idea of visiting Golden Gate pedestrian bridge which connects the cable car station with the gardens first thing the next morning but Paul and Charlotte sad I was trying to do too much … BIG MISTAKE. I really regret not doing it as I probably won’t be going back and it is really cool…ho hum. This is what we missed…courtesy of internet.
Go Back to: Hue
Go to: Hoi An
Go to: Vietnam
