Nepal: Chitwan National Park

Chitwan National Park is a preserved area in the Terai Lowlands of south-central Nepal, known for its biodiversity. Its dense forests and grassy plains are home to rare mammals like one-horned rhinos and Bengal tigers. The park shelters numerous bird species, including the giant hornbill. Dugout canoes traverse the northern Rapti River, home to crocodiles. Inside the park is Balmiki Ashram, a Hindu pilgrimage site.

🙂 Riding elephants and spotting Asian Rhino and calf – amazing!

🙁 Riding elephants (now that we know what we know today). Camera film ruined by heat and sun so very poor quality photos.

When we got back to our Homestay in Kathmandu and collected our stored luggage we were saddened to find that most of our Lonely Planets had been stolen as well as stoves and other items… We were up at 06h00 and walked to the bus which would take us to Chitwan called the Jungle World Bus. The journey took 6 hours and on arrival we were collected in a Jeep. We were rammed in with an Indian family of 6 so rather crowded. THey were a very rude and disrespectful family shouting and gesticulating at the Nepalese and demanded to check their rooms first, then arrived 20mins late for lunch which had already been served and then complained that it was cold…it was an excellent lunch which was warm when served. After lunch we waited another 20mins for the Indian family in a Jeep before they turned up late again.We drove to the elephant camp and interacted with the elephants and fed them … Note: These Indian elephants have their spirits broken and trained to be submissive, so not recommended but we did not know this at at the time…. you can see the large chains around their feet.

Headed back for another excellent vegetarian curry followed by Nepalese dancers and bed.

Up at 06h30 and breakfast at 07h00 – divine roti – yum! I had an upset tummy and had to run back to loo and the Indian man made a comment about me keeping them waiting – the audacity – I nearly gave him a piece of my mind but managed to keep it in. We all hopped on our elephant and set off – the mahout seemed in control but I couldn’t help noticing that he had a sharp implement which did not look pleasant for the animal.

We wandered through tall elephant grass and saw the chital spotted deer which ran off. We headed into the dense jungle and within minutes came across a huge Indian Rhino – amazing armour plated creature – so fantastic! Just beautiful with his huge armour plated slabs. We came within 10m of the creature before it ambled off.wE walked on and within minutes found a female with a tiny baby calf – just incredible. She was aggressive and stood her ground snorting so we were rather nervous and fortunately backed off. What an amazing sighting – so special – the baby was an exact mini replica, armour plates and all – we felt so fortunate to have had this beautiful experience. Unfortunately the film camera got ruined by the sun so that photographs are not very good but here they are:

On our way back to the Visitors Centre we saw more deer and wild pigs. We waited again for the Indian family who were again late for lunch and then complaining again about it being cold…. honestly. We ignored them and really enjoyed our meal. After lunch we headed to the river after waiting yet again for the family who were late as usual. We canoed for about 20mins and then hopped off for a jungle walk. We found massive fresh tiger footprints in the mud – he was probably watching us from the tall grass!

We continued on our walk and our guide stopped dead and whistled putting his fingers to his lips – what looked like a huge statue was the rear end of a huge rhino 10m in front of us! It turned to look at us, and we looked at him – Burma, our guide picked up a stick and snapped it and the rhino thundered off in to the undergrowth – phew! Exciting stuff! We walked on and could see fresh claw marks on a tree where a sloth bear had recently climbed – just amazing – loved every minute! We walked back to the canoe and rowed across the river where we enjoyed a beer at the ‘Jungle Pub’ whilst watching a spectacular sunset – what a great day it had been. Another delicious meal awaited us after we confirmed that we would like to camp in the jungle the following evening. Bed feeling on top of the world.

Slept in until 07h00 and then enjoyed a delicious Indian Breakfast of puri and roti and curry – yum! Trent and my tummies were a bit dodgy. Headed off at 08h00 on a birding walk with Burma. Spotted storks and swamp mugger crocodiles. We also fond the leaves which furl up when you you touch them. Lots of amazing flora too. A beautiful walk.

Met two lovely couples who had also done the Annapurna Circuit – they laughed as they had been told that there was a family doing the trek…. and that was us! We left at 14h00 on our camping adventure. It was a proper 4×4 experience going through water and up and down dongas! The road had not been used for a year! Massive spider webs and spiders as we crashed through the jungle foliage! Got to our camping spot and started to pitch our tents …

We were just pitching ur tents and had opened a beer when we spotted a marsh mugger … on closer inspection we saw a rhino also bathing in the river! We took off our shoes and crossed the river – the croc disappeared and we crept closer – our video battery died! We sat watching this huge bull for ages – he had plenty of fresh war wounds – what a wonderful privilege.

When we got back the camp was fully erected and our chicken slaughtered (They had asked us whether we preferred beef / mutton / chicken …. pleased that we hadn’t dragged a cow along!) Trent wanted to eat the head and Paul ate the intestines – I settled for a drumstick!

We watched the sun set and the men bathing with the elephants. A ‘water taxi’ transferred a family across the river … extremely chilled… stunning sunset. The food was amazing considered it was cooked on an open fire in the middle of nowhere – the guys offered us a drag of a joint after Trent went to bed and we felt decidedly woozy! Fell asleep to sound of rhinos snorting and fighting …amazing.

Up at 06h00 to a beautiful misty sunrise – stunning. Had our fav puri breakfast plus porridge.

Headed back to HQ where we were presented with an unexpected bill… they had added on food to the camping excursion which we had been assured was included – we were happy to pay for the beer but the rest left a bad taste …what a pity as it ruined what had been a great trip and so we did not leave the usual tips as we were now short of cash again as had not budgeted for this… ho, hum…. Hopped on bus back to Kathmandu – Trent hyperactive! Bumped in SA couple we’d met in Indonesia and also Rob & Jo who walked to Nightingale Hotel with us where we checked into what felt like a luxury room! Went to My Place with them for dinner and a beer – and stopped at a Pharmacy to buy antibiotics for my chest … Paul had upset tummy. Bed.

Up early next morning and headed to Indian Embassy for visa and then bought flights. Rob & Jo found us and we arranged to meet the at Rum Doodle at 18h00 as well as Jose and Renee. Great evening: cocktail, a beer and delicious veg gratin and apple pie and custard. Bid all farewell and posted cards to Linda, Ivan and Graeme for their birthdays. Varanasi, India next stop!

Go to: Annapurna Circuit

Go to: Nepal

Go to: Varanasi

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