UK: Ben’s Epic Roadtrip: From John O Groats to Lands End to Northern Ireland

Ben came to visit us from South Africa so we undertook a fantastic UK Roadtrip which went from John O Groats in the north to Lands End in the south and lots in between! He also enjoyed a trip to Northern Ireland ... we had Fun! Fun! Fun!

🙂 Epic UK Roadtrip

On arrival Ben went to stay with Geoff and Bev to help them on the Knighton Farm in Exmoor. Exmoor is home to England’s largest herd of wild Red Deer. The Exmoor pony is the oldest native pony breed in Britain and yet is currently listed as an endangered rare breed. Approximately 3,500 of these ponies survive worldwide, of which around 350 still live free on Exmoor.

We collected ben a couple of weeks later and headed off on our Roadtrip. Our first stop was going to be the Lake District so that we could do some walking. The Lake District is a region and national park in Cumbria in northwest England. A popular vacation destination, it’s known for its glacial ribbon lakes, rugged fell mountains and historic literary associations. Market towns such as Kendal, Ambleside and Keswick are bases for exploring the area and home to traditional inns, galleries of local art and outdoor equipment shops. 

We camped in a Farmer’s Field: near Great Langdale called Thirlspot Farm Camping which is well situated for hiking, fell walking and cycling, being located midway between Keswick and Grasmere, on the A591.  

The next morning we set off to climb Helvellyn and Striding Edge: The route starts off from the village of Glenridding on Ullswater. It takes around 6-7.5 hours to complete the Helvellyn walk via Striding Edge and Swirral Edge. This ascent is considered the most spectacular of all. This narrow ridge has a reputation of being scary and difficult…. Ben was like a mountain goat though – no fear at all! 🙂 To reinforce the seriousness of these ridges, near the start of Striding Edge is the Dixon memorial. A small but conspicuous plaque reads “In memory of Robert Dixon of Rooking, Patterdale who was killed on this spot on the 27th day of November 1858 following the Patterdale Foxhounds“. Once safely across, at the far end of the ridge is the memorial stone to painter Charles Gough which is worth pausing to read. Today people still fall sustaining serious or fatal injuries. It is truly spectacular.

Stunning scenery!

A perfect end to a perfect day at the pub for a pint.

The next morning we packed up early and hit the road after breakfast heading north to Scotland and to Killin. Killin is a small village at the Falls of Dochart, a spectacular series of rapids, at the western end of Loch Tay. We stopped for some tatis and haggis and a look at the falls.

It started to rain really hard so we decided against camping and found some glamping cabins instead. We had a nice braai and then played Monopoly … not a great game when you drink wine and get grumpy – so Paul and I had a big fight! LOL.

The next morning we did the very beautiful short walk which makes a circuit around the little ravine of the Falls of Acharn above the village of the same name. The falls are very attractive and are viewed through a Victorian ‘Hermit’s Cave’.

The autumn colours were amazing.

Next stop was a bit of whisky tasting at Dewars!

We did a sidetrip to see Kieliekrankie – because we love it in the Kalahari and we wanted to see its namesake. Spotted a funny rhino sign too.

That evening we went to the Kenmore Hotel for dinner after having a cup of tea in the Poet’s Bar first. The Kenmore Hotel has a claim to be the oldest inn in Scotland, and has a poem written by Robbie Burns on its fireplace. Dinner was amazing! Cullen skink soup is the BEST!

The next morning we headed to the Isle of Skye via the North Coast 500 – absolutely stunning scenery! The photos can do the talking…

We eventually got to the ferry to take us to the magnificent Isle of Skye. The Isle of Skye, connected to Scotland’s northwest coast by bridge, is known for its rugged landscapes, picturesque fishing villages and medieval castles. The largest island in the Inner Hebrides archipelago, it has an indented coastline of peninsulas and narrow lochs, radiating out from a mountainous interior. The town of Portree, a base for exploring the island, features harbourside pubs and boutiques. 

The camp site called Kinloch was amazing – right on the sea – we could see seals while we were braaing! Simply stunning … so remote and wild. Ben and Paul tried their hand at fishing but had no luck. Camping right on the loch shore gives mazing views and making it the perfect spot from which to watch the many and varied birds that populate these tidal waters, including the occasional eagle. Just on the other side of the village is the famous Dunvegan Castle and it’s magnificent gardens , seat of the Chiefs of the Clan MacLeod for over 800 years and one of Skye’s most popular attractions.

The next morning we were up bright and early to set off on some more hill walking. The weather was perfect! The ld Man of Storr is  is probably the most famous walk on the Island and definitely the busiest. The ‘Old Man’ is a large pinnacle of rock that stands high and can be seen for miles around. As part of the Trotternish ridge the Storr was created by a massive ancient landslide, leaving one of the most photographed landscapes in the world.

Very sweet – a couple got married 🙂

Neist Point is one of the most famous lighthouses in Scotland and can be found on the most westerly tip of Skye near the township of Glendale. From the path you will see stunning views of the high cliffs and the lighthouse itself, at sunset the view is made even more spectacular making this a top destination for landscape photographers.

A tiring but wonderful day. We enjoyed a dinner and the sunset back at camp.

The next day we bade Skye Farewell and crossed the bridge back to the mainland. Eilean Donan Castle built in the 13th century was a particular highlight. Eilean Donan castle is incredibly beautiful – and internationally famous. It is probably the most photographed fortress in the whole of Scotland, and has featured in movies such as James Bond (as the Scottish HQ of MI6, no less). We were welcomed by bagpipes!

It was great to spend some time here absorbing the rich history.

Bealach Na Ba Pass or simple “the road to Applecross” is a pretty narrow and windy stretch of road and that has been the only way to reach the village of Applecross for decades. Beyond all stretches of the entire 500 Miles this part is by far the most difficult and steepest stretch of the official NC500 route. Every time we have crossed here we have spotted magnificent red deer.

This part of the NC4500 is truly spectacular! Our car had been giving us trouble and we had to drive in Sports mode – rather nail biting stuff doing this route in a vehicle which was not performing! We just manifested positivity! 🙂

Our next camp site was also incredible – such a stunning part of the world. Clachtoll Beach Campsite . It is situated on the Stoer peninsula looking across the sea to Lewis, Harris and Skye…simply divine.

The next morning we were up for another walk. The Old Man of Stoer is a 60-metre-high sea stack of Torridonian sandstone in Sutherland, Scotland, close to the villages of Culkein and Stoer and the nearby Stoer Head Lighthouse. It is a popular climbing route. A signposted trail leads along the cliffs to the stack. It takes about 30-45 minutes to walk the route from the Stoer Lighthouse where there is ample parking.

Evidence of a fox? We enjoyed lunch with this magnificent view.

We headed back to our stunning camp site where Ben and Paul tried fishing again. The sunset was beautiful. What a wonderful world. The rainbow was the cherry on top!

The scenery continued to inspire and we stopped off at some ruins and imagined what it had been like to live there…

Smoo Cave is a large combined sea cave and freshwater cave in Durness in Sutherland, Highland, Scotland. The cave name is thought to originate from the Norse ‘smjugg’ or ‘smuga’, meaning a hole or hiding-place.

We then drove to the late Queen Mother’s Official Residence. The Castle of Mey is located in Caithness, on the north coast of Scotland, about 6 miles west of John o’ Groats. In fine weather there are views from the castle north to the Orkney Islands.

The rainbow persisted – gorgeous!

John o’ Groats is a village 2.5 mi northeast of Canisbay, Caithness, in the far north of Scotland and lies on Great Britain’s northeastern tip. The settlement takes its name from Jan de Groot, a 15th-century Dutchman who once plied a ferry from the Scottish mainland to Orkney, which had recently been acquired from Norway by King James IV.

We headed south and stopped in for the night at Richard & Claire’s in Penrith Penrith is a town in Cumbria’s Eden Valley, England. It’s known for the massive 14th-century Penrith Castle, set on a grassy meadow. Nearby, the Penrith Museum houses Roman pottery and objects reflecting local history. To the north is Beacon Hill, with its Penrith Beacon monument and panoramic views. South of town are the Norman Brougham Castle and the prehistoric monument of Mayburgh Henge – we had a great walk and an excellent evening although sore heads all round the next morning!

ne of the finest stone circles in the north of England, Long Meg and Her Daughters stone circle has a diameter of about 350 feet, the second biggest in the country. Long Meg is the tallest of the 69 stones, about 12 feet high, with three mysterious symbols, its four corners facing the points of the compass and standing some 60 feet outside the circle.

We had such fun!

We left with Houdini – a lovely rooster who would otherwise have met the pot…so called as he managed to escape from his box!

What a great stay … now we were heading south to Cornwall – Mevagissey – a village, fishing port and civil parish in Cornwall. The village is situated approximately five miles south of St Austell. Picture postcard perfect! We enjoyed a delicious seafood lunch.

We had booked a glampsite on a farm which was very pleasant.

Considered one of England’s finest surviving coastal fortresses, along with its companion fortress at St Mawes, Falmouth’s Pendennis Castle has a rich and intriguing history. The castle was built from 1539 to 1545 when the country was at risk of invasion from the united powers of Catholic Europe. Pendennis was part of a national programme utilised by Henry VIII which saw the installation of coastal artillery forts equipped with weaponry fit to destroy enemy warships. It guarded the anchorage of Carrick Roads and the port of Falmouth for more than 400 years before being called upon again during the First and Second World Wars. Pendennis Castle has seen its fair share of military action which is today on full display through English Heritage. There’s plenty to see and do including a First World War exhibition, guided tours, and regular family events.

Lizard Point in Cornwall is at the southern tip of the Lizard Peninsula. It is situated half-a-mile south of Lizard village in the civil parish of Landewednack and about 11 miles southeast of Helston.

SUPER windy!

That evening we stayed in a lovely AirBnB in Helsted and they gave us a recommendation for a local pub where the fisherman sing shanty’s every Saturday night – SUCH fun – and wonderful to witness. Sea shanties are traditional songs originally created and sung by sailors at sea. Basically, there are two kinds of shanties. First are the work shanties: the short drag, short haul, halyard, windlass, or capstan. Second are the forecastle or fo’castle shanties. These generally are the ballads or tell of some historical event. They get there name from the part of the ship where the singing usually took place: the forecastle, which was the crew’s quarters. Cadgwith Cove Inn: the The Cadgwith Singers started many years ago in the Pub at Cadgwith with Buller and Hartley. The singing has changed over the years and many of the original singers are now gone, sadly missed, and their voices too. Their parts have been passed on to others who keep the traditional songs going.

St. Michael’s Mount which is a tidal island is a dramatic place that you have to see. Similar to Mont Saint-Michel it’s a little slice of Cornish history that dates back centuries. Cross the causeway where a legendary giant once walked. Follow in the footsteps of pilgrims, or boat hop to an island where modern life meets layers of history. Discover an evocative castle, a sub-tropical garden paradise and a close-knit island community.

The Minack Theatre is an open-air theatre, constructed above a gully with a rocky granite outcrop jutting into the sea. The theatre is at Porthcurno, 4 miles from Land’s End in Cornwall, England. The season runs each year from May to September. We have seen many great Productions here – a unique experience with a stunning backdrop.

We then reached a milestone: Lands End (we had travelled from North to South!). Land’s End is a headland and tourist and holiday complex in western Cornwall, England, on the Penwith peninsula about eight miles west-south-west of Penzance at the western end of the A30 road. To the east of it is the English Channel, and to the west the Celtic Sea.

We stayed in a lovely little farm AirBnB – it happened to be the Springbok Wales game- Phew – we won!

We enjoyed lunch at Cornwall’s most famous smugglers inn made world-famous by Daphne du Maurier’s Jamaica Inn novel. Offering unique accommodation near Launceston.

The site of Tintagel Castle has been inhabited at least since the late Roman period, and a community flourished here in the 5th to 7th centuries. In the 12th century Tintagel gained literary fame when Geoffrey of Monmouth named it as the place where King Arthur was conceived. A fantastic MUST VISIT English Heritage site!

Clovelly is a privately owned harbour village in the Torridge district of Devon, England. The settlement and surrounding land belongs to John Rous who inherited it from his mother in 1983. He belongs to the Hamlyn family who have managed the village since 1738.

Perfect final stop on this trip until we headed home.

We drove past Stone Henge

We explored locally and headed for some Christmas Cheer – Ben found the secret envelope and won a crystal necklace prize!

Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park is always a fantastic time out – Ben loved his first experience on all the rollercaosters! trenwas really generous!

Paul took Ben out for a day in London – they had lots of fun!

We enjoyed a trip to Windsor to see the Queen!

The oldest building in Windsor – quite wonky!

Ben then finished his trip with a few weeks on an organic farm in Northern Ireland. He visited giant’s Causeway too.

What a great visit. We were sad to see Ben head home but hope that he had made some great memories on his UK Road Trip!

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